South Through British Columbia

We shared the narrow passage from Prince Rupert with sport fishing boats, tugs and this behemoth. We were anxious to get on our way. The forecast showed rain mixed with rain for the next 1-2 weeks.

While exploring Misty Fjords 2 weeks ago, our diesel heater on Dog Star stopped working. We were able to stay warm without problems, but as the rain set in things became damp and in no time mildew showed up. We bought a space heater in Prince Rupert, which we could use on high while plugged in at the dock, but only on low while underway and not at all at anchor (draws too much current). So we needed to get South! We buckled down to long days, similar to our trip North through Canada, but with new anchorages.

We arrived at Lowe inlet at 5 pm (only an hour before dark now that we had such short days!) and anchored in front of Verney Falls. The current kept us snug at anchor until our early departure the next morning. We awoke at 6 am, eager to get further south, but it was pitch dark! Drat those short days of fall. In the spring we could have left at 3:30 am.

Still raining.

Spectacular views between showers.

We stopped at dusk in Bottleneck Cove, a beautiful anchorage worthy of another stay. Too late to explore, we opted for the next best thing: cribbage (two 20 hands!)

Milbanke Sound is open to the Gulf of Alaska and with all the storms recently, a heavy swell was coming in. We took a more protected route and emerged at the edge of the sound.

We called ahead to New Bella Bella to make sure the fuel dock was open.

The fake owl fooled us too!

After an awesome job backing into the rickety dock, we waited and waited and waited...

I pulled out the cruising guide for the phone number and realized I had called Bella Coola, 60 nautical miles away at the end of a long fjord. The New Bella Bella fuel dock was definitely not open. Fortunately across the way was Shearwater, though the fuel dock was "closed" due to the death of a tribal chief. We were able to get fuel however and press on. Along the way, we saw a curious sight in the distance.

A boat parade? Closer inspection revealed an impressive feat of unentanglement.

Eighteen new sport fishing boats for a fishing lodge being towed by the lead boat.

Beautiful Kisameet Bay has a tricky serpentine entrance.

The next day was a dash for Cape Caution, another stretch of water completely open to the Gulf of Alaska. The afternoon forecast was for calm winds, though swells remained.

Still raining.

We picked our way through the fog into Skull Cove.

Only a few miles away are the fastest navigable tidal rapids in the world, Nakwakto rapids. At up to sixteen knots, they will make exciting future exploring.

The next day we crossed Queen Charlotte Strait to anchor in Spout Island Cove on Hanson Island. The cove looks out into Blackfish Sound, named for the frequent Orca inhabitants.

The infamous Johnstone Strait was now the next challenge. Notorious for frequently windy conditions, the strong current could slow our speed by half and if charging against the wind, heap up uncomfortable chop. We thought it best to delay entering the strait until after noon.